Into the Glasshouses at Fujiya Hotel in Hakone (HERE). Fujiya Hotel is the oldest western ‘hotel’ in Japan and is also one of the most expensive; stupidly so. You should only stay here if you have a lot of money or feel that telling other people you stayed here would somehow meet some deep, unmet, need. We came to feed the fish and walk through the greenhouses but stayed longer to read for a while in the reading room by the big windows in the entrance. You see families pull up where each member has their own camcorder, simultaneously recording. An old father arrives with a limp and a golden cane. Grandmothers in worn furs, and the beige european tourists dressed entirely in beige, a genuinely confusing camouflage.